Out with the old, in with the new....air filter

I have now fitted the DC2 air box, trunking and OEM air filter, a long with a cold air feed from the bumper.

The air filter I got with the air box looked a bit old so I replaced this today.

I'm sure you can tell which is the new filter in this picture! I picked up another OEM replacement from Honda. I may go aftermarket in the future, like Blitz for example, but for now this will do.

For those wondering about how the DC2 air box is fitted, well I am sure there are lots of other glamorous ways of installing one, but this home made bracket does it for me!

In this picture you can see the cold air feed attached to the bottom of the air box. Under the air box is a rubber seal. I binned this and cable tied the actual feed securely around the box and fed the other end to the front bumper.

New filter fitted.

Now the resonator has been removed and the air feed fitted, there is a very nice induction growl now. I have not experienced any power loss or stuttering low down that some people say you can get either.

Chow for now.

Mugen Twin Loop fitted...plus smashed out cat

Still not fitted my DC2 air box yet! Just ordered a cold intake kit and need to get some brackets in order for it to sit correctly, so more on that soon.

Yesterday I did manage to get the Mugen Twin Loop exhaust fitted though. While fitting the exhaust system we noticed that the baffles inside the cat were collapsed. Probably did not do much for the flow and explains why it only just scrapped through emissions on the MOT test.

So, we smashed out the cat and fitted it with the exhaust system.

The Twin Loop is nice on idle. A little bit louder than the stock system on tick over, nice and throaty. You can tell its not stock.

On VTEC it really shines. Not overally loud but louder and throaty enough to enjoy and actually sound sporty.

The best thing though is the response/torque that has been achieved. I am not sure how much of this is due to the smashed out cat or how much is from the Twin Loop but it picks up really nice now.

I now have that the tinny sound from the cat though, can't be helped. Come MOT time I am going to try and get hold of a second hand cat or a sports cat. Anyone know of any?

I am pleased with the exhaust modifications so far and looking forward to the DC2 box and cold air feed even more now.An EK9 + bolt on's, decat and Hondata S300 + tune IMO must really create a very fast, responsive, streetable car.

To be truly great, the EK9 needs a B18C

So, the B18C is now in.Here are some pictures and comments.

Firstly, time to get everything ready in order to drop the engine out. Never used a hoist in the end. For anyone who thinks dropping the engine out is easier that lifting it out...I think you're crazy!

We used the following to remove the engine:

2 axle stands
3 jacks
Breeze blocks
Cups of tea and coffee
1x pink belt from a dressing gown.

Yes you read that right. Make shift hoist baby!

Bonnet off, wheels off.

Then came the easiest part. Disconnecting everything and dropping the engine out. The air con got in the way I bit but we managed it.
We couldn't get the car up too high as the higher we got, the more unstable it went. So unstable that on once side the jack actually partially collapsed! Eventually we cleared everything and managed to get it on a crate and shimmy it along underneath the car.

Here is the B16B on the way out.

And here it is saying good buy to its mother and leaving home.

Now time to get the B18C in. The B16B was a bit jealous of the B18C. Here you can see them weighing each other up.




Anyway, I had to prep the B18C for going in so I split them a part before a fight broke down and got on with the following:

Swapped over my existing rocker cover from the B16B as the one on the B18C had been resprayed but I was not too keen on the shade of red.

Removed my B16B engine harness and installed it on to the B18C. The B18C harness would of been fine but my B16B harness looked in better condition.

Used the B16B oil pressure sensor. The B18C same with some sort of Defi gauge sensor.

Also, there is some sort of mount on the right side of the engine when facing it directly. I think it lines up to the passenger side engine mount? Anyway I changed it over for the B16B mount as the angle of it was a little different. This is the only mount that I can think of that people may of mentioned when doing the conversion.

Next we installed the ACT Street Lite flywheel.

And then a OEM clutch.

Here is the engine bay waiting for the B18C. At this point it would of been a really good idea to give it a good clean down, but we never had time.

So here is the B18C on the way up in to the engine bay. Nearly there now!

Then what seemed like hours later, we finally managed to align up the mounts to holes and get the bolts in! What a nightmare.She's in!A picture before everything got hooked up.

I will get some better pictures of the finished article and update at a later day. I am still aching after the conversion.We started the conversion at 12:00pm Wednesday and finished...wait for it...5:30am the next morning! WTF These things are never as simple as they sound.

So anyway, driven the car for about 2 days now and here are my first impressions. Feel free to ask me questions though, will help me think too.

It sounds very stupid, but the car feels like how it should...like it has a bigger engine in it!
It sounds more powerful and just feels more powerful even when cruising and driving below VTEC.

The car is now more eager to go. Just blipping the throttle now just feels like the car is ready to jet off. It rev's up a bit easier and faster now too due to the ACT lightened flywheel.More torque all through the rev range. Not only does this make the car a faster car, it also makes the car far easier to drive.In scenarios where I may of geared down or the car may of bogged there is no problem now. I can use 5th where I used to use 4th etc.

The VTEC change over is not as aggressive but it does not bother me in the slightest. With the B16B the change over to VTEC felt a lot more aggressive because it is pretty flat below VTEC, where as the B18C has more torque by the time it reaches VTEC it does not feel as aggressive.It might not feel as thrilling, but you definitely know you are going faster before VTEC than the B16B ever did.

I thought I might miss the aggressive VTEC cross over point, but after two days I can tell you I don't.I am sure there is more, but that will do for now. Again, feel free to ask any questions!

So, just a few things that I need to do:

Fit the DC2 air box.

I am using the EK9 air box at the moment as I need to make some brackets up in order to fit the DC2 air box. As the throttle body is larger on the B18C the trunking from the EK9 air box is actually smaller in diameter so this probably is causing a restriction? There might be more to come from the engine yet!

Also, I still have not fitted my Mugen Twin Loop so I wonder how the car is going to feel with the new air box and twin loop fitted?

So overall the B18C is a better engine in every scenario IMO and I would never go back.Still, coming from a 275hp 8**KG tin can I can tell you its still not enough for me.

Next is a Hondata S300 + tune.

The story continues.....

Mod focus - ACT Lightened Flywheel

As part of my B18C conversion I obviously decided to fully service the engine before it goes in, but to also fit a new OEM clutch and a lightened flywheel.
Well today I got my flywheel from America which is an ACT Street Lite flywheel which weighs 5.7kg.

Some of the benefits of the ACT lightened flywheel are:

-Quicker acceleration and increased throttle response
-Maximum gear life - gear will not wear out or fall off
-Serviceable - can be resurfaced with no need to purchase additional parts
-Chrome-moly forgings three times more rigid than aluminum
-Longer lasting because of heat treated friction surfaces
-Excellent heat capacity from retaining adequate material behind the friction surface
-Trouble-free single piece design -SFI certified to insure safety

Now, I don't have personal experience but here are some negatives when installed on a daily driver:

-More rev's needed to set off
-Harsher deceleration when letting off the throttle
-Rev's drop quicker

With a lot of modifications there is a compromise, so as my car is a daily driver I decided to go for the ACT over other light weight flywheels such as the Fidanza which weighs only 3.4kg for the above reasons.



The flywheel is still considerably lighter than stock, I will still see all the above benefits, but no so much or not has harsh negatives.

The B18CR has arrived

Finally the real fun starts.

Today I took delivery of the B18CR which is from a 98 JDM Integra Type R. They produce more power than the UKDM Integra due to a different ECU map and 4-1 header.

Had a look around the engine and everything looks fine so far. Found a bit of bodged wiring to the alternator and the 'paint job' to the engine is not to my taste. I asked for the engine to be cleaned but it got sprayed, including the inlet manifold, fuel rail and rocker cover.

I'll be swapping these out from my B16B as I prefer the unpainted look.

I am still awaiting some parts from America, but as long as they arrive before Wednesday the plan is to do the conversion Wednesday night.

There will be a few upgrades that will be happening and a full engine service before it goes it, which I will update you all on shortly.

For now, here are a few snaps:

Braking + Misc Updates

So, not updated in a while but now it is time for a few more minor updates.

Well, last week I finally got this little lot fitted.

- HEL braided brake lines
- HEL braided clutch line
- Blue Print rear pads
- McGard locking wheel nuts

- Brake/clutch fluid changed with Motul RBF 600

I can't give you much information on the pedal difference in regards to the braided lines at them moment, as the system is not 100% bled properly and I ran out of fluid. This will be sorted shortly via a suction pump.

The Blue Print pads are a simple OEM standard replacement for now, as they were an advisory on my MOT. Uprated disc's and pads will come at some point.

I picked up the locking wheel nuts for £10. A bargain I could not ignore.

Next things on the list:

- Raise the car even MORE. Still a little too low
- Fit the Mugen Twin Loop
- Under seal the car
- Locate a B18C

I am currently in negotiations in regards to the B18C. Waiting until I get this months pay packet before making any decisions. Assuming it is still available at this point.

For now, I'll leave you with a few shots so you can get an idea on the fitment of the braided lines.

Mugen Twin Loop Arrival

When I came home on Friday afternoon, I was greeted by a very large box in the living with my name on it. It could only of been my Mugen Twin Loop exhaust system.

I opened the package today and inspected the exhaust to ensure there was no major rust and/or damage. Thankfully, everything seems to be in order.

I gave the system the once over with some Autosol to bring back some of the shine. Nothing to shout home about and it will end up getting dirty again when on the car anyway.

A close up of the JASMA stamps.

Very small dint and scrape on the backbox. Nothing to worry about though, will not disrupt the air flow at all.

The EK9 this came off was probably lowered, scrapes like this are common and to be expected.

So, the exhaust will be going up into the attic until I raise the car AGAIN. It is still too low and the exhaust is rubbing on some speed bumps, so I will not being fitting the Mugen until this has been done.

Bye for now, more soon.